A farmstead cheesemaker located just west of Austin, Amelia Sweethardt lavishes attention on her small herd of goats and on the cheese she carefully makes by hand. St. Maure is a delicate cylinder of goat’s cheese coated with a layer of ash and bloomy-white mold. Patterned after the French cheese of the same name, St. Maure is mild at the center, but with a distinctive tang that intensifies with age.